San Pietro in Montorio, the temple with a view

The Janiculum Hill is universally recognized as one of the finest viewpoints over the beauty of Rome—I challenge anyone to offer me a more stunning panoramic view.

Perched atop this hill is the historic Spanish Academy. Looking out from there toward the northeast, you immediately notice Villa Medici, home to their long-standing French rivals. These two great kingdoms have always competed in Rome through politics and art—and, of course, in the panoramic positioning of their representative seats. Setting aside any personal or political preferences, if I had to choose, I would award the crown to the Spanish—and I do so for one artistic reason.

The Spanish Academy houses one of the most celebrated and pure creations of the Italian Renaissance: the Tempietto, designed by Donato Bramante between 1502 and 1510 on the site traditionally believed to be where Saint Peter was crucified. This small building was conceived in the pursuit of perfect form: proportion, harmony between parts, central plan, balance, and references to antiquity. Everything that defined the new architecture of Rome can be found here in its earliest form. And we will discover it together.

To do so, we will walk through some of the halls and cloisters of the Spanish Academy—and then, suddenly, the Tempietto will appear: small, and absolutely perfect.

But before this Renaissance masterpiece strikes us straight to the heart, we will prepare our souls as lovers of beauty by stepping into the dark nave of San Pietro in Montorio. Commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, the church almost feels semi-abandoned. Its bright white Renaissance façade draws your attention, but once inside, you are immediately enveloped by a sense of timelessness and quiet neglect.

Yes, weddings are sometimes held here—the view from the forecourt is, after all, breathtaking—but the church is not widely known or frequently visited. And yet, it has so much to offer.

Without revealing everything, let me just say: one of the earliest oil paintings on wall in the history of art, based on a design by Michelangelo, painted by SdP; frescoes by the greatest artist (I won’t tell you who) of the early Italian Renaissance, and by the master who brought that style to Rome in the 15th century; an extraordinary masterpiece by Giorgio Vasari—actually, almost two; a deeply inspired and devout architectural work by Bernini; and a masterpiece by the most mysterious follower of Caravaggio.

In short, a true jewel of art.

A rich and rewarding program, in a place far less famous than it truly deserves to be.